I'll preface this and say I'm an E-Force sponsored player. And I string on a Babolat Star4 machine.

E-Force- Heatseeker 2.0. Eforce hasn't really changed its stringing pattern for a few years so Eforce racquets are pretty easy for me.

Head- Head's stringing patterns are pretty consistent over the past few years as well, although I'm curious who pulls the string back over the cross string opening (kinda bending it back to tension) or do you lock your table and pull all the way across the string bed (pulling from the opposite side)????

Wilson- Around here, there's only a couple players that play Wilson, those racquets are a little more challenging as one needs to make sure there aren't any cross-overs as the string goes down the handle.

Gearbox- Now that I was clued in that the bottom cross string isn't actually strung and tensioned with the rest of the crosses, it's pretty good.

Ektelon- I'll be candid and say, this is my least favorite racquet to string. Ultimately I only have a couple customers with the Re-Ignite, it's kinda a PITA to lock the table each time withe O3 speedports to maintain the integrity of the string holes.

Anyone see things differently?

Kisling - I'll take an E-Force racquet anyday with the exception of some of the older frames with lots of crosses. Because the brake on my Alpha Revo 4k is not super functional, I designed a simple wood block I rest over the tension arm that physically locks my turntable 90 degrees for tensioning the crosses on most Ektelon and Head frames. It works like a champ and I no longer even have to use my brake. Wilson racquets are my least favorite also. I usually pre-string the mains prior to clamping up the frame to make sure the strings do not get crossed while feeding blindly underneath the handle. Pro Kennex and Gearbox frames are pretty straight forward. Regards, Foss

Foss

Kisling - I'll take an E-Force racquet anyday with the exception of some of the older frames with lots of crosses. Because the brake on my Alpha Revo 4k is not super functional, I designed a simple wood block I rest over the tension arm that physically locks my turntable 90 degrees for tensioning the crosses on most Ektelon and Head frames. It works like a champ and I no longer even have to use my brake. Wilson racquets are my least favorite also. I usually pre-string the mains prior to clamping up the frame to make sure the strings do not get crossed while feeding blindly underneath the handle. Pro Kennex and Gearbox frames are pretty straight forward. Regards, Foss

Pro Kennex and Gearbox are without a doubt the easiest racquets to string, but what I really love about Gearbox is that their string patterns have remained exactly the same across all models....lovely. I have difficulty with the Wilsons on My Alpha Revo, due to in handle string design.

tkisling

Head- Head's stringing patterns are pretty consistent over the past few years as well, although I'm curious who pulls the string back over the cross string opening (kinda bending it back to tension) or do you lock your table and pull all the way across the string bed (pulling from the opposite side)????

I haven't strung any Head's recently. Just had a buddy ask about string breakage in his BlackJack... is there anything especially vulnerable about the string in the racquets or anything special to consider when stringing them?

Matt

The thing to consider on the head racquets w/ the IGS is to tension the string by pulling across the opposite side of the racquet. For example, if you're tensioning the 1st cross string of the IGS set by feeding the string through the next lower cross hole (but NOT weave the string), lock your table from spinning and tension as in-line as possible to the cross string.

I've seen some people string by tensioning each cross by wrapping back over the edge of the frame on the same side as the exit hole for that sting. While I've never read anything that prohibits it, I just can't see how that's good for, 1. the frame to put 33# of tension on that spot that doesn't typically get that level of stress in a specific spot, and 2. the string to be tensioned while rubbing against the edge of the grommet hole.

I have to say, I am pretty confussed about what people are saying about tensioning the crosses on Head racquets with IGS. I am having a hard time picturing what is being said.

I have done quite a few and it is fairly easy if you follow the instructions given by head in their PDF file. Just search online for "Head racquetball racquet stringing".

Below is a part of it that I copied from it and it tells you what to do on the crosses.

Features HEAD’s patented Power Channel System

On IGS racquets crosses must be started on the same side of the frame as the tie off hole at 4T (4T has 2 IGS holes on this side of the frame).

On IGS racquet crosses, tension must be pulled over or under the frame. Before pulling tension you must lock the table on the machine. Pull tension and clamp far enough from the frame so you can then run the cross through the IGS channel and weave the next cross. Repeat until all crosses are done.


So in a nutshell, you weave the cross string to the other side, set the brake in the correct position, tension the string from either above or below the frame (I do it below the frame), clamp it a few inches away from the frame and pull the end of the string through the next IGS holes and weave across to the other side.

Good luck

lionel_101

So in a nutshell, you weave the cross string to the other side, set the brake in the correct position, tension the string from either above or below the frame (I do it below the frame), clamp it a few inches away from the frame and pull the end of the string through the next IGS holes and weave across to the other side.

This is what I've done, too, although I mostly just string for myself and a few collegiate club players, so I haven't done a lot of these racquets.

I believe what tkisling is talking about is to draw tension after going through the grommet. I'm not sure if he draws tension once or twice after weaving each cross (e.g., weave, then draw tension over/under frame, go through grommets, then draw tension again from opposite side of racquet)

Matt

mdhills

I haven't strung any Head's recently. Just had a buddy ask about string breakage in his BlackJack... is there anything especially vulnerable about the string in the racquets or anything special to consider when stringing them?

My question was more on whether there is anything about the racquets that would cause strings to break more frequently (anyone remember the early grommetless ektelons? -- those are what motivated me to do my own stringing!)

But I'm guessing not. Talked with the player more, and I'm wondering if the Ashaway Superkill 17g just isn't very durable...

Matt

I haven't seen or heard anything about the Head racquets causing strings to break. Usually I do see a lot of frame hits at the top causing the string to break early in all makes of racquets.

I had a friend who bought a whole reel of Ashaway Ultrakill string and he would go through a set of strings in a few games. After heaaring all the good hype about it, he was extremely disappointed. Jack H. played with Ashaway strings, but I don't know how long they lasted for him.

I dislike Wilson racquets with the mains in the handle, mainly because you almost have to prestring the center mains off of the stringing machine. Also some Wilson racquets start the mains at the throat, which kind of throws you off when all the other racquets start at the top.

Next are the Eforce racquets in general are a pain, but especially with the dual cylinder channels, like the Command series. Only because I have an Gamma X-2 and the mounting posts at the 12 and 6 o'clock position get in the way of properly cinching up the first main tie-off. Not to mention I have to use starting pins (strings) a lot due to my floating clamps.

ProKenex and Gearbox racquets are a breeze to do.

Interesting topic so I'll chime in.

I've been stringing for almost 4 years now. Since my club was Dominated by Ektelon I have done mostly these since the Speedports. I can do the 03 style O-ports racquets in my sleep and faster than many other racquets. No tricks or challenges that I'm not used to after doing so many. BIG holes on the sides can't be any faster to do.

Eforce comes next as the most to string and I first didn't like the challenge and difficulty of doing one every so often but now they are a nice change from the typical Ektelons. Needing a "straw" as a stringing tool was kind of funny but truly effective.

Gearbox and Pro Kennex F series are equally the same but a little tricky at the throats for not overlapping or twisting the strings.

Head are ok with feeding issues in the internal frame holes but rarely do any.

Wilson with the funky handle thing you have to hand string most the the mains then tension and won't do them unless I HAVE TO ;) . Luckily I've only had to do 2 and refuse 1.

I did a Slazenger x1 with Ektelon Premier string and I really liked how it hit for a low ender. Reminded me of the Gearbox or Pro Kennex racquet style.

I would do a stack of Ektelon 03 style racquets all-day-long in place of any other racquets out there.

Just a few weeks ago on a brand newish Head high end racquet the factory string broke on both racquets at exactly the same place, a main string, 5th? string out same side. Since putting in Ektelon Premier 17g Black string everything seems ok with it??? He's a lefty and a good Elite player in our club. Being a lefty could be the problem since racquetball racquets are built for righties except the Pro Kennex F175 for Kane, it's a lefties racquet LOL.

I like to string but I really like to hear that my customer's / friends really like the string job and end up playing better that the previous string jobs from others or from the factory. Even better if they liked it so much that they promote for you and encourage others to have you do it. I'm thinking of charging more maybe double if my string job works against me when they beat with the new string. What do you thinks about that stringers???? LOL, no but seriously.... :)

Dalton

Pro Kennex and Gearbox are without a doubt the easiest racquets to string, but what I really love about Gearbox is that their string patterns have remained exactly the same across all models....lovely. I have difficulty with the Wilsons on My Alpha Revo, due to in handle string design.

Best way to approach those Wilson sticks is to remove the grip and it does make it easier.

The easiest racquet I think to string is the Liquidmetal 170.

Manny

Coach Manny

The easiest racquet I think to string is the Liquidmetal 170.

Manny

Hi Manny,

I'm almost afraid to ask but do you know how quickly can you fly through a LM 170 (once the frame is preped and locked on the machine).