Is it just me or are others getting lots of "server error messages when clicking on posts?
Is there a reason for it, or is it just my computer and network connection ?
It is almost unuseable in it's current state.
I am not blaming anyone, especially Willie, as I know he is trying his best to get it back where it was before the new year came along.
I am going to string an Ektelon O3 Blue racquet and noticed via visual inspection with the strings still in, that the top tie off location for the cross is on a cross string. I looked at the instructions for this racquet on the Ektelon site and even the instructions are incorrect for the crosses on this model.
Ektelon instructions are for the crosses are:
Crosses
1. Tie starting knot at 6H-R
2. Start at 5H-R and weave across to 5H-L, then down to 6HL
and across to 6H-R
2. Continue installing cross strings conventionally. Finish and
tie off at 2T-L.
* It is recommended to use a table-brake when stringing cross
strings.
The cross tie off is actually on 7H-R and is a cross string location and not a main string like all of their other racquets.
Since there is no string at that location, you can't tie a starting knot there.
The only option I can see is to use a starting clamp or in my case a flying clamp (I use a X-2 stringing machine) on the outside of 5H-R and leave enough string to reach the tensioner and then proceed to string the crosses until I tie it off at 2T-L. Then I go back and retension the string at 5H-L and tie it off at 7H-R.
Has any one strung an Ektelon O3 Blue and is this the way you had to do it?
Maybe a fellow stringer can look at the stringing instructions on the Ektelon site and see if I am correct or not.
http://www.ektelon.com/racquetball/files/product.aspx?cid=13&ProductId=61Thanks
I was wondering if anyone that helps low level players with their game have every used a squash court to practice hitting passing shots?
I usually help low level players with their game when asked, and by first advice is to use and hit good DTL and Cross-Court Passing shots. It is pretty amazing how many can't even hit the ball straight.
I put up tape about 18" to 24" on the front wall and tell them to hit the ball no higher then that and try and hit the ball DTL with the ball bouncing twice before hitting the back wall. Once they can do that, I have them do a cross court pass the same way.
I was roaming the web and saw a racquetball game being played on a squash court and was thinking it might be good for learnig to hit passing shots. If you hit the tin, then you are shooting to low for a normal passing shot. I want them not to roll / kill them, put to be able to control their shots and not skip them in.
Plus, it might be good to practice on a squash court to get them to move around better and to be hitting backhands and forehands equally.
What to you guys think about this? I am going to give it a shot and see how it works out for me first.
Here is a link for those that are interested in seeing 2 guys playing racquetball on a squash court.
http://www.videosurf.com/video/2010-vic-open-racquetball-final-game-1-1273550588Thanks.
A friend gave me his new PK F175 racquet to restring. I looked at it and saw that the tie offs for the mains sit in a deep channel in the throat. I gather this is some new technology.
Like the E-force Command racquet where the tie offs are in a deep channel, there is no real way that you can cinch up the tie off knot like with most other racquets where you pull the knot away, up and back to the frame.
I was wondering how other stringers are cinching up the tie off knots for the mains in this kind of racquet or if anyone knows how the factory cinches up the mains tie off knots.
I am debating about not stringing it, or to just go ahead and see what happens. The existing string is brand new, but my friend just doesn't like PK Liquid string.
Thanks for any help.
I've run into this a couple of times too. The best thing before quitting altogether is to just pursue some other activity (tennis, weight training etc) for a couple of months. I've always found my own interest in rball coming back after I try it again after some time off.
Hi Willie,
On some other forum sites, like Talk Tennis, they have an option to put people your don't want to see what they write on your Ignore List. Once on your list, anything the person writes will not show up, just that they posted a message.
You click on the person's name and it brings up the person's basic profile. It allows you to then add them to a buddy list or to an Ignore list.
Do you think this is possible to do on your site ?
Thanks
Picture 1) Typical Racquetball Court with Upstairs Gallery
Picture 2) “Out” - Lose rally when ball leaves court
When a player hits the ball out of the court, they lose the rally (Out).Originally the out-of-court rule was a “Replay Hinder" when the ball hit the front wall and went out of the court, and a “Out” if hit directly out of the court. This rule was changed a while back and the current rule is an “Out” whenever the ball leaves the court.
NOTE: There are some exceptions for courts that have a lower back and/or side wall that was designated in advance as out-of-play.
Official IRT Professional Racquetball Rules of Play
All surfaces shall be in play, with the exception of any gallery opening, surfaces designated as out-of-play for a valid reason and objects that are not considered part of the court determined before play begins by the IRT President. Anything inside the court is considered part of the court, making it in play unless it is added such as a microphone, speaker etc.
The referee should stop play immediately whenever the ball hits any part of the court that was designated in advance as out-of-play.
Source: IRT Rules of Play - http://www.irt-tour.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=118&Itemid=167
USAR Official Rules of Racquetball
2.1 - Court and Specifications
The specifications for the standard four-wall racquetball court are:
(a) Dimensions. The dimensions shall be 20 feet wide, 40 feet long and 20 feet high, with a back wall at least 12 feet high. All surfaces shall be in play, with the exception of any gallery opening, surfaces designated as out-of-play for a valid reason (such as being of a very different material or not in alignment with the backwall), and designated court hinders.
3.13 Rallies
c) Failure to Return. Any of the following constitutes a failure to make a legal return during a rally:
3. The ball is hit such that it goes into the gallery or wall opening or else hits a surface above the normal playing area of the court that has been declared as out-of-play [See Rule 2.1(a)].
Source: USAR Official Racquetball Rules – http://www.usra.org/Rulebook/tabid/839/RuleID/8/Default.aspx, http://www.usra.org/Rulebook/tabid/839/RuleID/26/Default.aspx
I click on my meet and play favorite link (I been using all the time) and now it brings up a webpage that is not the usual page we love and know. Just by accident, I clicked on the meetandplay.com at the top and it gets me to the correct page. What the heck is going on??
Hello all,
I was looking at racquetball warehouse for a new ProKennex racquet and saw a racquet there I haven't seen before. It was called a ProKennex KM 175 Pro Racquet and costs $99.00.
It gave the following description:
For the Kane fan on a budget. The KM 175 Pro is built on the same frame as the KM 175 of last year. Kane was an integral part of the design process for the original KM 175 as it was built specifically for his playing style. The new KM 175 Pro features a head heavy balance for added power combined with natural control resulting from the string pattern and frame design. The KM 175 Pro is a great choice for the recreational player.
It gives the following specs
Head Size: 108 sq. in. / 697 sq. cm.
Length: 22 inches / 56 cm
Unstrung Weight: 175g / 6.2oz
Strung Weight: 189g / 6.7oz
Balance: 12in. 8 pts Head Heavy
Swingweight: 163
Grip Type: PK Wrap
String Pattern:
16 Mains / 19 Crosses
Mains skip: 7H, 9H
One Piece
Shared Holes: 10H
String Tension: 28-38 pounds
After looking at the picture, I noticed that it is "NOT" built on the same frame as the KM 175, as the KM 175 used the old shadow frame. This racquet looks more like the old Pure 1 light teardrop types.
I guess my question is, is this just another old Pure 1 model with a different paint job on it to just sell more racquets ? or is it indeed a new model with new features that happens to have the same type of teardrop frame as the Pure 1?
Also, I wondering why Kane would allow his KM logo on a low end racquet, that everyone knows he doesn't use.
Attached below is a picture of the new Kane racquet.
I have strung a person's Head Extreme 170 racquet 4 times with white Forten Competition Nylon 16g string at 35 lbs. Each time he has created notches almost 1/3 the way though the string, which leads to early breakage within 2 - 3 weeks time.
I offer low cost stringing and only use one string which is the above and for most people it is fine and lasts a very long time, except for those who's swing creates major notching to occur.
My question is what other kind of string can I use that will help prevent or at least slow down the notching and make the strings last long. I am thinking maybe some type of multi-filament string would be better, for these people.
If you can recommend a string to try out, that is about $10.00 or less, it would be very helpful.
Also if someone can tell me how and way the notching is occurring in the first place. I believe it is from them slicing or using to much topspin or spin in general when hitting the ball. Maybe then I can pass it on to the user and tell them why it is happening.
Thanks
Lionel wrote:
Not a racquetball question but a almost fatal situation and would like to know what you would do.
I live in a quiet neighborhood and about 2 blocks from a busy private school. Everyday people pickup their kids around 3:15 and the head out to the main streets. Most obey the speed of 25 mph, but a few fly down the street at over 40.
I was crossing at a street corner where they exit the school and head for the main street. It was probably 50 yards between us. Half way through the walkway, I hear some one's car engine rev up / put their foot into the thottle. I looked up and a SUV was heading straight at me at a fast speed. As I looked, he kept coming at me and never tried to brake. I had to jump back out of the way and landed on the ground.
Instead of stopping and checking on me, the guy just kept going. I got up and chased him to the next stop sign where he was behind a few cars. He saw me and dangerously passed the other cars to get on the main street and away.
Unfortunately, I didn't get his license number nor did I get a good look at the car. All I remember is it being a shinny grey and small SUV. Also of course there were no witnesses who saw what happened. I didn't bother with the police, as I couldn't give them anything to find the sucker with.
I plan to go to the school tomorrow and look up and down the line of waiting cars for this kind of SUV and if a guy in any of them panics when they see me, I am going to get their license number and at a time and date of my choosing, going to find out where they live and work and hand out some rough justice to him and/or his SUV. Or I could just forget it and count my blessings that I wasn't killed.
I was wondering what other guys here would do, if they were in my shoes.
A. Try and find the guy and give him some pay back.
B. Just forget it as I don't want to go to jail
C. Something else.
Glad you are OK. Remember, unless the driver targeted YOU, don't take it personally (like any road rage).
Since you don't know what the situation was, or why the driver acted this way, don't get personally involved. There may be some stupid explanation (on way to hospital?). Whatever, contact the local police and give them the details. They will be concerned about the well being of the public, especially the school kids 2 blocks away. I assume the police will ask the time and day, and send over a cop to watch to see if something is going on during that time. The person may have more than one vehicle, have borrowed the car or stolen the car. It's never worth confronting the person. This person may be a nut, or someone with emotional problems. Allow the police to deal with this. It's their job and they can do something about it.
I'm interested to hear what you have to say about the very high tensions. I have the same string and pretty much bought it cause it was cheap and isn't a big deal for me to restring that often.
In my experience it didn't offer great durability but then again I have a bad habit of framing more shots than I should. However, for 17 bucks, you can't ask for much more. :)
I was wondering how many of you out there serve using their backhands, instead of their forehands ?
I practice alot and always trying new things. I was doing lob serves with my backhand to the middle of the court (simulate playing doubles against a righty and lefty) and thought about drive serving left handed.
So I place myself near the left wall (sort of where Cliff Swain sets up) and hit backhand serves to the right side. I was very surprised that about 30% of them just cleared the short line and either cracked out or hit the side wall so low it would be unreturnable. The another 30% would go to the right corner area and bounce out so hard down the wall that the receiver would have a hard time chasing it down. The other 40% were just so so serves.
I would think having good serves using both your forehand and backhand would keep your opponent off balance. Not to mention serving lobs and Zs backhanded as well.
If nothing else, I think it will help to improve and make my backhand stronger and more consistent.
What do you guys think?
I have been stringing for 6 months now and have done lots of different racquets and have never noticed that after stringing them they are all 1/4 inch shorter then when unstrung.
I looked at a Head LM 170, Ektelon Speedport and a PK Platinum 175 that I have just restrung and they are suppose to be 22 inches in length, but end up at 21 3/4 inches.
Is this normal and happens to all racquets or am I doing something wrong when mounting the racquets that is causing it when tensioning up the strings. I have used the middle of the suggested range for tensions for each racquet.
I am assuming it is ok, but it seems odd.
thanks
I called up E-force support and ask a few questions about the stringing tension for their racquets and if I heard correctly this was the following. I should have called them sooner to make sure I was stringng them right, looks like I was doing it only half right.
The factory stringing tension for racquets going through the bottom and pulling only from the top and pulling the crosses 2 at a time and using 17 guage Platinum string is 38 lbs and for multifilament strings it is 41 lbs. This should result in a final tension of around 32lbs. If you tension each cross string separately, you need to reduce the stringing tension down to 32 lbs. , else the frame may become distorted.
So, if you pull only from the top and pull 2 crosses at a time and you want a final tension of 29 lbs, you would set your reference tension to 35 lbs if you want 32lbs, you use 38lbs and so on.
If your stringing machine is able to pull from the butt of the racquet, then you can just set the tension on your machine to what you actually want it to be.
Maybe others can chip in and tell us how they string E-force racquets that go through the handle and if I am saying anything wrong, correct me.
BTW, There are quite a few older models that have half the mains going through the handle and the other half going through normal grommets. I gather in this case, you increase the tension when pulling the mains going through the handle and then go back to the desire tension when doing the mains going through the grommets and crosses.
I was hoping some one here would know about the E-force Dare racquet, especially the weight of it and what old model of E-force racquet it is made from.
I am sure it is a repainted old E-force model, just like the Head Fire racquet (which is just a repainted LM170), that was created to sell at Big 5 stores
I have searched around the internet and found some generic info on it, but nothing as to it's weight.
I bought a new one (strings were cut out for some reason) for $10.00 off of Ebay and wondering what I actually got myself for it.
Thanks for any info.
I gave a friend the Fran Davis DVD and he was trying to implement the flat swing she shows.
He is older (near 60) and has bad knees, thus can't bend them to much to get down low on balls. He was wondering if the swing in the picture is close enough to a flat swing that she talks about or is it still more of a pendulum type swing?
When he plays and practices, he thinks he is hitting flat, until I took a video of him and as you can see the racquet is pointing at a downward angle when at full extension and at contact with the ball.
Does hitting flat actually mean the head of the racquet should be pointing straight at the sidewall? or is there always a downward angle depending on how high the ball is taken in the swing?
Hello fellow stringers,
Just wondering if there are other forums out there on stringing racquetball racquets that has a bigger following and is more active ?
I belong to the tennis talk forum (Tennis Warehouse) and it is great, but deals mainly with tennis issues on stringing and so forth. However, I can usually pick up some tips and stuff that applies to racquetball as well.
If you know of any other forums, please jot them down so I and others that are interested can check them out.
Thanks
I am stringing some racquets from Wilson and Eforce that requires you to tension the strings from the top of the racquet only, because some or all of the mains go through the handle.
I believe stringers call this double pulling, because you are actually tensioning 2 string at once.
My question is, to you need to add more tension to compensate for pulling 2 strings, or do you just go on as it was just 1 string? If you do add more tension, how much more is it?
Thanks
